On the Aegean coast of Turkey, tomatoes grow that are picked in the late summer sun, sliced and sun-dried until the water has left and the flavour has intensified. They are then ground into a fine, deep red powder. It is tomato without water in the way: denser, rounder and more umami-loaded than any tomato compote or tin can be.
The powder dissolves quickly, colours fat beautifully and gives an immediate slow-cooked feeling to things that have not in fact been cooked for long. Whisk into warm butter with a little salt and pour over fried fish or roasted cauliflower. Shake into a frying pan with garlic and olive oil and add pasta. Mix with salt and sugar for a dry rub for chicken. Whisk into warm water and butter for an instant tomato broth.
It is the spice that thinks alongside you in the kitchen and makes the dish better in thirty seconds.