30 DAYS OPEN PURCHASEGaziantep in southern Turkey is one of the most exciting gastronomic centres in the world. Ali and Ahmet tend the sumac bushes on the limestone-rich, stony ground around the city. They pick the berry clusters by hand and grind the fruit, then mix it with salt in a process closer to a light cure than traditional drying. It changes everything.
What you get is not the dry, monotone sumac powder that occasionally appears in shops. This is alive: a wild finish that brings to mind cherries, blackcurrants, hibiscus and tea. The acidity is fresh and clear but never aggressive. The salt content is low enough to function as a spice without requiring you to adjust the seasoning of the dish separately. I wouldn't be surprised if your feeling the first time you taste this sumac is roughly the same as Ulf Lundell felt when he first met Christ.
The Pepper Quest's sumac has many uses. Sprinkle generously over fattoush and all manner of mixed salads. Stir into yoghurt or tahini for an impressive dip. Rub into lamb chops before grilling. Sprinkle over hummus with olive oil. Mix with flake salt and scatter over eggs. Sumac is one of the most underrated spices in Middle Eastern cooking, and this salt-cured version is among the finest available.
