This is a frying pan you only understand once you lift it. Demeyere Proline isn't a slightly better version of an ordinary steel pan. It's built to do one thing better than almost anything else in the kitchen: fry.
The secret is in the build. Seven layers of steel and aluminium, 4.8 mm thick in total, all the way up to the rim. That's considerably more than in most steel pans, and you notice it straight away. Add four cold steaks and the pan barely loses heat. Place them along the edge and they sear just as well as the ones in the middle. The base is wide and the sides rise steeply, so an unusually large share of the diameter becomes cooking surface. On the 28 cm pan, the base is a full 22 cm.
Like all uncoated stainless steel pans, it handles high heat and metal utensils, and leaves a fond on the bottom that's the start of a really good sauce. The surface is treated with Demeyere's Silvinox, which keeps the steel shiny and makes it easier to clean. The handle is cast stainless steel and welded on, so there are no rivets inside. The two largest sizes also have a helper handle on the opposite side, which you'll come to appreciate. The 28 cm pan weighs 2.3 kg.
It's heavy, it's expensive and it asks you to learn how to handle stainless steel. Preheat it at two-thirds of your hob's power. Once it's hot, add what you're cooking and turn the heat down to one-third. Even so, we think it's one of the coolest things you can put on a hob, and it's made to last the rest of your life.
Made in Belgium with a 30-year guarantee against manufacturing defects. Works on gas, electric and induction, is oven and grill safe and can go in the dishwasher. Available in 20, 24, 28 and 32 cm.