Frozen Desserts answers the question every ambitious home cook has asked but no consumer cookbook answers. Why does homemade ice cream turn icy when shop-bought ice cream does not?
The answer is that ice cream is not a recipe but a calculation. The relationship between fat, sugar, milk solids and total solids determines everything, and if you change one of them, the others have to be adjusted. Different sugars lower the freezing point by different amounts, which is why dextrose and invert sugar make ice cream softer without making it sweeter. The amount of incorporated air, known as overrun, determines the texture and, at the same time, the cost per litre.
This is the textbook that teaches you how to do those calculations. It is written by Francisco Migoya together with the Culinary Institute of America, and Migoya has an unusual CV. Pastry chef at The French Laundry and Bouchon, then professor at the CIA, and today head chef at Modernist Cuisine, where he is co-author of both Modernist Bread and Modernist Pizza.
The contents cover dairy-based frozen desserts such as ice cream, gelato and sherbet, sugar-based varieties such as sorbet and granita, as well as aerated frozen desserts such as parfait, semifreddo and frozen mousse. Both classic and modern production methods are covered, with fundamental formulas and advanced bases. The final chapter deals with plated desserts and ice cream cakes.
448 pages, and the only book in the field that assumes you want to understand what you are doing rather than simply follow a recipe.
Format: Hardback
Number of pages: 448
Publisher: Wiley
ISBN: 9780470118665
Language: English
First published: 2008